Kurseong: Worthy Competitor for Darjeeling's Throne
This was once just a brief stopover on the way to her more famous cousin - Darjeeling. However, Kurseong has now emerged as a tourist hotbed and is attracting travelers from all around the globe. She is famous for succulent Momos at the Tourist Lodge, untouched greeneries and some stunning views of the adjacent peaks.
TRAVEL
The Thinking Me
9/13/20248 min read


I recently visited Kurseong after almost eight years. The last time I was here was for a night out with some of our closest friends. We were seeking recluse from a tragedy, a time out from the rigours of life.
It would be the first time I spent a night at Kurseong.
And the hill station didn’t disappoint. Splendid food, good company, and a dreamy locale. It is a trip that stays vivid in our memory.
I have been considering another trip to Kurseong for a while, although heading back hadn’t materialised. Travel is a slowly turning into a luxury in our busy life. Gone are the days when you could simply pack your bags one evening and hop on the train to nowhere.
However, that hasn’t managed to quench our wanderlust, especially since there’s a walking alarm in the Pandit house pestering us all day.
“Where will we go next, Baba?”
Messi has developed a taste for travel at quite a young age. Still only seven, my son fails to understand why we cannot go on a vacation every week. We try to keep him at bay by pointing out his commitment at school, his co-curricular activities.
But little smartypants has already realized that the rigours of daily life are what makes vacations so precious. Of course, vacations mean no studies, no school, no exams. Days spent in leisure, without barriers, hence his insistence on a series of vacations instead of one once in a blue moon.
But there's a lot one can learn when we hit the road and we have realized that this is true for our seven-year-old as well. From identifying traffic signs and signals to reading the names of places we are passing, Messi, unwittingly, has been gathering knowledge during our travels as well.
Traveling opens up your mind, so the last time we were in Malbazar, we decided to finally answer Kurseong's call.
Malbazar to Kurseong


We set out one July morning on an 87km trip to Kurseong from Malbazar. We followed National Highway No. 17 and then NH 10, moving through a familiar route. It is a road well traversed during my college and university days, although much has changed since then.
However, the drive remains as beautiful as before and a little bit of nostalgia can do you no harm. We crossed the fabled Coronation Bridge, sped through the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, and soon left Siliguri behind. We took the Pankhabari road, stopping for a Momo break on the way.


With every bend, the air became chillier, the sky appeared a little more azure. The sun no longer burnt our faces, instead, she caressed us with her warm embrace. The drive became slower, because there was so much for our eyes to relish. We enjoyed some stunning views of the valley below, finding our way through strings of coniferous trees that stitched clouds to the hills.
Kurseong, Darjeeling, West Bengal, India


I have found that I cannot be bored of mountains. No matter how many times I head up the hills, I always find something new to hold on to. The pleasant mountain breeze, the flurry of pines and coniferous trees, the clouds that knock at your door. It's a love that has refused to age with time, transporting me to a bygone era, transforming me into an overexcited teenager.
As such, I was immersed in adrenaline as I drove into Kurseong Town.
This was once just a brief stopover on the way to her more famous cousin - Darjeeling. However, Kurseong has now emerged as a tourist hotbed and is attracting travelers from all around the globe. She is famous for succulent Momos at the Tourist Lodge, untouched greeneries and some stunning views of the adjacent peaks.
Unfortunately, the Tourist Lodge was under repair on that particular day and there were no Momos available either. It was a disappointing start to our Kurseong adventure. However, while Momos are one of the main pillars of life, this little Town in the district of Darjeeling has so much more to offer.
Dow Hill, Kurseong - a place reveling in lost glory


The last time I was in Kurseong, Dow Hill left a lasting impression on all of us. We were mesmerized by the pine forests, the mist, and the isolation. Eager to rediscover this paradise, we started our tour of Kurseong with a trip to Dow Hill.
However, reaching Dow Hill proved to be a challenge, especially with some dodgy service from Google Maps. We ended up taking a few wrong bends and wasting our time before seeking local help. Thankfully, the people in Kurseong were very helpful and we were soon on our way.
We had a brief stop at Victoria School, which has intrigued tourists with its fables of ghosts. However, we couldn't spot any ghouls in broad daylight and instead indulged in an excellent Wai Wai chat available outside the school gate.
With our tummies temporarily satisfied, we proceeded on our journey to Dow Hill Park. Unfortunately, the place is now living off its past glory. The long climb up the hill will appeal to nature lovers, with bird sightings possible. However, the actual park at the end of the trek is in a state of disrepair. The tickets are not worth it, as the place hasn't been maintained well. There are no deers present and the kids' area, much to Messi's frustration, was completely broken.
Eagles Crag, Kurseong


Although Dow Hill Park didn't live up to expectations, our spirits remained undeterred. It is, of course, hard for disappointment to prosper with so much greenery around. The wonderful weather encouraged us to continue our exploration of Kurseong. We were soon climbing down Dow Hill and on our way to Eagles Crag.
By then, we had completely abandoned Google Maps, taking instructions from cheerful inhabitants of this beautiful town. We took the narrow lane by the side of the Kurseong Railway Station and proceeded for another challenging climb up a hill. This time, though, the sight at the end of the short drive took our breath away.
Eagles Crag offers a panoramic view of Kurseong and is a must-visit on your trip to the town. You have to purchase tickets for a nominal fee and can climb up the watch tower for an even better experience. This is a photographer's paradise and with the weather lending a helping hand, we took some splendid photos as well. When Mother Nature, in all her glory, failed to subdue our tummies, we indulged in another round of Wai Wai Chat.
One can imagine that sunsets will be an enthralling affair at this place, but since we were pressed for time, we had to bid adieu to Eagles Crag and head to our next stop.
Giddapahar, Kurseong


Gidda Pahar is undoubtedly my favorite place in Kurseong. One can sit at the observatory for hours and watch the clouds glide past the hills. This is a place that can inspire poetry, and compel painters to turn to their easel.
We lost track of time as our eyes feasted on the rendezvous of hills, each a different shade of green. We also visited the nearby Netaji Museum, which, in itself, is a historical marvel. And at the end of it all, we simply strolled around.
There are small stalls and eateries here where you can indulge in a few snacks. Don't forget to have tea as well!


I sat down with a cup of tea by the side of the road and was enjoying the countryside with Messi when a canine friend came up to me. The dogs are quite friendly and will approach you without fear. If you are a dog lover like me, this will feel like an added bonus. I enjoyed spending time with this fellow, who actually followed me around. We treated the gang with some biscuits as well, which they gladly accepted.
If you are visiting Gidda Pahar, don't forget to feed the dogs. If you don't like dogs, please don't hurt them. Simply ignore them and they will leave you alone. These noble creatures mean you no harm.
Margaret's Deck, Kurseong


I am sure that all the mighty explorers of the world were foodies. All that traveling is bound to cause a tempest in the belly! Exploring Kurseong turned out to be no mean feat either and soon built up a kingsize hunger. As was the plan, we decided to check out the very popular Margaret's Deck.
It is a beautiful place around 8 km from the Kurseong on the way to Darjeeling, sitting just by the side of the road. You will have no trouble locating it, thanks to a gigantic teapot signaling its existence, which can be easily spotted from afar.
There's parking space available a little ahead of the tea lounge, which will also suit travelers arriving with their own car. The place looks posh and is on the costlier side. But the view kind of makes up for it.
It was too late for tea, so we skipped the starters and proceeded to the main course instead. We ordered Imperial Chicken, Tomato Creamy Pasta, and Fries. The food was decent, certainly not the best I have tasted in my life. We ordered some brownies to end the meal on a sweet note, which was quite good as well.
Au Revoir, Kurseong


Messi had been eager to spot a Toy Train all through the day and his wish was fulfilled during lunch. The little man rushed to the edge of the deck at the familiar "Toot Toot" of the locomotive engine. He remained fixated on the tracks as the train approached, with the sounds building up a drumroll before the actual arrival.
And soon enough, the Toy Train made a majestic entrance, huffing and puffing past Margaret's Deck, spilling steam and adding to the mist. Messi's joy knew no bounds, and it was followed by a familiar question.
"When will we ride the Toy Train?"
After we had soaked in the afternoon sun on the deck and taken our fill of the view, it was time to head home. We proceeded at a languid pace, not too eager to leave this sleepy town. We had more pitstops on the way back, sometimes for pictures, sometimes to simply enjoy the scenary.
Kurseong didn't disappoint us, once again, and certainly deserves a stopover on your next trip to Darjeeling. If, like us, you prefer a little peace and quiet, you could even make this place you next destination. You may find that unadulterated hills and pristine pines reaching out to the sky can make your day.
Kurseong Essentials
Location: Darjeeling District
Nearest Airport: Bagdogra - 40km.
Nearest Railway Station: Kurseong Railway Station, NJP - 38km
Best Time to Travel - September to June, particularly beautiful after the monsoon