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Royal Manas National Park: A Wild Buffalo, a Blue River and a Corner of Peace in Bhutan
A journey into Bhutan’s Royal Manas National Park, where winding mountain roads lead to the tranquil Drangme Chhu River and the beautiful Royal Manas Eco Lodge. From prayer flags and hanging bridges to a solitary wild buffalo, this is a story of wilderness, family, nostalgia and discovering a quiet corner of peace in Bhutan.
TRAVEL
The Thinking Me
9/8/20265 min read
I have an old association with Bhutan. I love the country and her people, and have always found warmth and love whenever I have returned to her cozy embrace.
My father started his professional career from the Kingdom of the Thundering Dragon, as did I. Whenever the opportunity to visit this mountain country presents itself, I always grab it with both hands.
My recent nostalgic returns to the nation has been covered at length in my previous blog posts (Read: Phuentsholing: A Pork Lover's Delight in rediscovering his favourite cuisine). I was recently in Manas National Park in Assam (You can read about that trip here: Manas National Park Stole My Heart!), and when we learned that we could venture into the Royal Manas National Park as part of our trip, there was only one decision to be made.
I had never been to this part of Bhutan before. My tryst with the mountain nation was through entry via Phuentsholing and my 18-month association with Tashi Beverages Limited at Pasakha.
A part of Bhutan I had never been to
Understandably, I was bustling with excitement as we approached the Mothabguri Camp in the Manas National Park.
For normal visitors to the Manas National Park, who decide against entering Bhutan, the jungle safari ends at the picturesque Mothanguri Camp. The jeep makes a U-turn and heads back to the wilderness of India.
For others, like us, who seek something a little extra on this trip, the road plunges into the Himalayan Kingdom, twisting and turning through the mountains.
Once the necessary paperwork and checks are done, you secure passage to the Royal Manas National Park.
How Old Are the Himalayas?
I have always wondered how old the Himalayas are. They have existed for millions of years and yet never cease to fascinate. They are like a closet of peace, where you can snuggle in amid the smell of naphthalene balls and stay protected from the world.
Mountains always bring me peace.
The ride through the Royal Manas National Park, of course, is a peaceful one. The first thing you will notice is the quietness. There is no cacophony of city life, no hustle and bustle of traffic. The only reminder of civilisation is the sound of the tyres treading the earthen road and the hum of the engine.
The fact that we were the only vehicle visiting the place that morning also added to the charm.
We wound up and down through the mountains, listening to calls of various birds, while Akibul, our driver and guide, tried his best to spot wildlife. We saw a myriad of birds, a flying squirrel, and some monkeys, but it was actually the scenery that was the charm of Royal Manas National Park.
To our right, the forest climbed the hills and appeared to touch the sky. On our left, a pristine blue river danced through the mountains, its roar mixing with the sounds of the wilderness.
This is the Drangme Chhu, which becomes the River Manas once it crosses the border and enters India.
Indian tourists who visit the Royal Manas National Park have to submit their original identity cards before they can enter the small village of Panbang. It is a relatively modest place, with a beautiful school and a few shops with basic amenities.
We crossed the cluster of houses and proceeded further to our destination, Royal Manas Eco Lodge, Panbang. We passed colourful prayer flags and breathed in air with the aroma of the mountains, before arriving at the beautiful property situated just by the side of the Drangme Chhu River.
Royal Manas Eco Lodge offers some exquisite views of Bhutan’s natural beauty and is a photographer’s paradise.
What does peace look like?
I often recall the experience of sitting by the Drangme Chhu river when I try to picture peace. The sun feels a little softer, the water very inviting, and the eastern breeze appears to brush your worries away. On the far side of the river, the mountains are a big blob of green painted on an azure sky, with no signs of fatigue from their centuries of existence.
It is hard not to feel peaceful when you are in Bhutan.
We indulged in some local breakfast, had tea by the side of the river and listened to the gurgling songs of the ice-cold water. I watched my son run along the lawn, chasing butterflies in the morning sun and felt time take a breather.
By the time we left, we actually did not want to leave, such is the charm of this little abode of peace. There is also a provision to stay here overnight, and one imagines it will be absolutely gorgeous to spend a winter evening here by the fire, sitting under a star-studded sky.
Heading back
On our way back, we stopped at the famous hanging bridge, enjoying the thrill of walking across it as the wind spiked up our adrenaline. It reminded us of the time we were in Phuentsholing a few years back, where we also had a nice experience crossing the Amo Chhu Suspension Bridge.
When you come across a hanging bridge, you cannot afford to miss out on the experience of walking across it!
There are other things to explore near Panbang, if you have the time and the purse. We had neither, so we headed towards the town instead. We walked around the shops searching for some souvenirs before bidding adieu to Bhutan.
The Buffalo goodbye
On our way back, we stopped at Mathanguri once more for a breather. I walked out to the viewpoint and stared ahead across the river. Moments later, a solitary wild buffalo walked out of the wilderness, treaded through the silver sand and stopped at the edge of the water.
The beast looked up, smelling the air, before settling for a dip. A well-earned respite from the midday sun, completely aware of the human eyes watching it with glee. For us, it was goodbye to Bhutan, and to another memorable trip to this mountain nation that never disappoints.
Tashi Delek! Till we meet again.
You can watch a video of our trip here:
