Varanasi: What an Atheist Discovered in India's Spiritual Capital
I recently travelled to Varanasi. It wasn't a soul-searching trip so much as a wife-following adventure! Yet, this holy city, with its culinary delights and the tranquil waters of the Ganga, left a lasting impression on the heart of an atheist.
TRAVEL
DEEPUNGSU PANDIT
10/9/20267 min read
I would like to start this blog with a statutory warning: I am not a spiritual person. I do not believe in God. I do not feel the urge to visit temples and offer prayers.
But I also do not question others’ faith and beliefs. Many would point out that my stance is based on the fact that my wife is a staunch believer and that the universal truth is that YOU DO NOT QUESTION YOUR WIFE.
I choose not to respond to those rumours.
And so, on a cold December night, precisely at 01:30 AM, I stepped off the train at Varanasi Railway Station with my wife and son, ready to question my understanding of spirituality. We crammed into a cab, shivering all the way to our accommodation near the famous Assi Ghat.
A cozy, warm bed beckoned us, but we chose to ignore it. It was not a unanimous decision, but certainly not one I had the authority to question.
Instead, after freshening up and indulging in a hot cup of coffee that knocked the sleep out of us, we were back on the road, this time in an autorickshaw. The sky was still dark and clusters of stars stared at us. The wind whipped against our faces, while street dogs snapped at our wheels, perhaps objecting to our bizarre 03:30 AM adventure.
While I missed the comfort of my bed, my wife, draped in the divine aura of her faith, appeared immune to the elements.
“Who visits a temple at this hour?” I thought, because, of course, husbands cannot express such ungodly thoughts in front of wives. After all, even the gods know that nothing compares to the wrath of a woman!
When I stepped into the Kashi Vishwanath Temple at around 4:00 AM, I had the shock of my life. Thousands of devotees had thronged the place, yearning for a touch of the gods, walking barefoot on the freezing cold marble floor.
I accompanied my better half without complaining, not because you do not question the wife, but because you want to see her happy. As Sumita fulfilled a long-held wish, I realised that spirituality is a very personal matter. For the believer, it can bring inner peace, reflected in the smile of contentment on my wife’s sleep-deprived face.
It was remarkable to see a belief so strong that, even after hours of travelling and with minimal sleep, the mind could find a sense of achievement and inner fulfilment.
Early Morning Ride to Kashi Vishwanath Temple
For the next couple of hours, as daylight gradually illuminated the city, my wife visited several other temples in this abode of the Gods, including the famous Kal Bhairav Temple, while I pondered over the impact of spirituality on the lives of the people of this great country.
Varanasi, however, is not unkind to non-believers like me, which is why she has gifted us with delicacies like Malai Toast, Bun Maska, Chachi Ki Kachori and Malaiyo, all of which we indulged in over the next few hours.
The experience of sipping a hot cup of tea in the cold Varanasi morning, even as the sky shed its pitch-black shawl and embraced the day, shall stay with me for ages.
Varanasi Does Not Disappoint Non-Believers
With our tummies full, we embarked on a boat ride along the holy Ganga, moving from Assi Ghat to Namo Ghat and covering the many, many ghats in between. Believers and a non-believer floated along the holy river, each lost in their own thoughts, trying to comprehend the enormity of the occasion.
The gentle rocking of the boat, the lapping of the river water and the birds flying around certainly offer a sense of peace, regardless of your faith.
At around midday, we visited the Ramnagar Fort, and our thoughts travelled to a bygone era, as we marvelled at this ancient city and the numerous secrets she holds.
If the boat ride was the undisputed highlight of my day, a sumptuous lunch at Kesariya Thal was a close second. The non-vegetarian food lover in me would have never imagined that I could enjoy a vegetarian meal to such an extent. While certainly in the pricier bracket, the meal was extremely satisfying for us all.
Varanasi had certainly lived up to its food folklore, although there was more to come.
The Holy Ganga remains the heartbeat of Varanasi
The sky was picking up the golden hues of dusk when we took our place on a rooftop overlooking Dashwamedh Ghat. The place was packed with devotees, once again highlighting how faith can bind people together and move mountains.
My wife watched the rituals quietly, engrossed in her thoughts and prayers. The grand spectacle, with its elaborate rituals and rhythmic chants, is bound to leave a mark on you. I sat feeling out of my depth, among people chanting in unison, and marvelled at the power of spirituality once again.
After a shopping spree at Godowlia Chowk, we finally moved back to Assi Ghat. Unfortunately, the famous Pizzeria had stopped taking orders by the time we arrived, so all our plans were thrown out of the window.
However, Varanasi wasn’t short of surprises, as we found out after walking through the doors of Palace on Ganges. The food, once again, did not let us down.
Dashwamedh Ghat: A powerful Display of Faith
As we took the short walk to our charming accomodation, Kashi Residency, the city was still welcoming, still full of life. That was when a certain thought crossed my mind – what does Varanasi have to offer someone who does not believe in God?
This was where the boundaries between spirituality and religion, life and death, seemed to merge. If you look closely, Varanasi doesn’t impose itself. I was not asked to give up my beliefs; instead, I observed this city that had withstood the test of time and, perhaps, found a few answers about life.
At Manikarnika Ghat, for instance, I was reminded that life is fleeting and death is inevitable. Yet, life continues despite death, and whether you believe in an afterlife or not, the life you have is precious and you should live it to the fullest.
The city itself is a study in contrasts, with ancient rituals surviving adjacent to modern amenities, a stark reminder that it is possible for two polar opposites to coexit without trying to tear each other’s throats out.
Of course, watching people whose lives are transformed by their belief is magical as well. Faith can be a powerful tool; it can make grief survivable, help people face their fears and find inner peace. A dip in the sacred Ganges can bring tranquillity to the hardest of hearts.
You do not have to be a believer to appreciate other peoples’ beliefs.
What Does Varanasi Have to Offer a Non-Believer?
For the non-believer, among all the food and sightseeing, what remains deeply embedded in the heart is the silence of the holy river. Time stands still and the only voices you hear, perhaps, are the ones that echo through your own mind.
I did not go to Varanasi in search of inner peace; I only wanted to honour a promise to my better half, and feed my wanderlust in the process. But even as an atheist in the spiritual capital of India, I found acceptance of my own beliefs. I indulged in inner awareness, in compassion, in stillness, and perhaps, in a realisation that I am enough.
Perhaps, this is also what spirituality is about. It is about finding meaning and depth in life.
The essence of Varanasi is that she welcomes the believers and non-believers alike. You shall find your God here, but if, like me, you simply want to explore one of the country’s most visited places, indulge in its food and history and marvel at its architectural wonders, you will not be disappointed either.
I went to Varanasi without looking for God. I came away with a deeper appreciation of those who do, and a few more reasons to appreciate the life I already have.
Varanasi, we shall meet again.
Time Stands Still in Varanasi
